A punting life for me

Motivation to pack equals zero. I’ve been walking around the house all morning trying to get my stuff together for my flight back to brissy tomorrow for Christmas but have done everything but. Procrastination has hit 100%.

Climbing recently has been going well. Been enjoying getting out and making the most of what’s apparently the coldest start to a summer in a long long time. I’ve been on Mechanical Animals a bit lately. It’s been a demoralising journey. After falling on the final hard move on my 4th go due to a tracking system failure, then the 2nd last move on my 7th I’m feeling gutted. The gastons are very taxing on my right shoulder so I really only get 2-3 good goes at it a day. After coming home early from a weeks worth of work in Tamworth last week I went to get back on on Friday. Only clipped the first draw, decided conditions weren’t so great so went out and worked the moves of Camel Toe, 29. I did it 2nd go and wouldn’t recommend it unless you’ve exhausted the rest of Boronia. Also did Onions, 27, that day too. I tried it once about 4yrs ago, couldn’t remember the moves and did it first go that day. I had climbed through the bottom cruxy bit of Onions, with the big reach to the pocket, when I did Don’t Believe the Hype. DBtH is a really cool route. Although it’s just a big link from the start of Veterans to the finish up Don’t Believe the Tripe, with only a handful of new moves it is a worthwhile line. I managed to climb this on my 3rd go in one day, which I was happy about. The guide says 31, but 30 seems more realistic. Having done almost all the moves already on the routes it links made it easier for sure, but it seems more like an even 30.

Since the last update, I popped my Diamond Falls cherry. Goddamn that’s a good bit of cliff. I onsighted Super Weak, 26, and Mr Magoo, 27, then tried the Super Goo exenstion, 28. This is where I flailed. I fell on the last move jump to the lip on my os attempted, worked the move out and figured it’d go 2nd shot. Nope!! On the 2nd shot I fell down low on Magoo because of a poor foot placement, devastating, so quickly lowered down untied, retried and went up again. The sun was creeping into the base of the cliff and time was running out. Staring down the lip of the roof again, pumped out of my mind, I made a piss weak attempt at jumping and came plummeting down. Dynamic moves on rope are my biggest weakness. I hate hate hate hate hate them. Something I really need to work on. Climbing statically is the way I love to climb. Grab something small, lock it down and reach for the next. Jay, Amanda and I headed out to DF again on Sunday. No one was all too chirpy though. Drinking too much beer at Elmar’s party the night before destroyed Jay and I. Jay barely got 10m up You Crazy Daimond, 23, one of the best 23s ever, before feeling like yakking and coming down. We headed round to the main wall and I jumped on Mr Universe, 30, another inspiring line at DF. I got all the moves and on my 2nd go made a good link. I came down almost throwing up. Better conditions and a few less Coopers the night before and I think it’ll be good. Jay got back on his nemisis, Super Weak but wasn’t feeling it either. We need to start planning our weekends a little better.

On Saturday Duncan, from QLD, and I went out to the Freezer. After getting lost walking too far, doing some train spotting, walking back too far, then finally finding our way we got in and had a great days climbing. I got on Pinking, 30, and after sussing the desperatly thin moves I came off on the 2nd last move on my 3rd trip up. This seems to be the way my climbing is going =s. It's not a pump issue or even forgetting the sequence, just a good ol' fashion punt. Dunc got on the ultra classic Lactictoc, 26, and came super close but, apparently caught my punting illness, and fell on the last hard move. Although it was a great day out we both left unfinished business behind. Keen to get back out

In non climbing related news. Jay, Chewy and I have set up a highline in the gum trees next door. It’s about 6-7m long and about 4m off the deck. It’s soooo good. We also have a slackline setup down low so you can get a bit of practice in before you hit the big time. Pretty keen to find somewhere higher and longer to set one up, going to do some scouting around for potential spots after Christmas. If anyone knows of any good ones let me know.

My bags are still just as unpacked and I still have a bunch of stuff to get done. Until next time, Merry Christmas, stay safe over the holidays and happy climbing =)

A good weekend

The weather in the mountains over the last week has been real horror show. From last weekend until Saturday morning I don’t think we had more then 20min where the rain eased up. The usual Bluies fog roles in and you just sit tight. A trip to the co-op for a spot of training helps with the itches, but it’s only a temporary fix. Maybe two days. As the weekend grew closer however, the prediction for a clear Saturday afternoon and Sunday began to look promising. Waking on Saturday morning to see blue skies chasing away the dark clouds was a welcome sight. Amanda and I headed out to Boronia that afternoon thinking we would be fighting the usual circus crowds. It was empty. There was a good breeze blowing and, in the shade, it was actually quite chilly. Although there was some run off from the top of the cliff, most routes only had wet victory jugs. It had been kind enough to venture no further down. After her success on Lyptus (23) last week Amanda changed her sights to Grape Hour, the classic 25 next door. After a couple laps up it she had almost all the moves. Pretty good considering its one of the hardest routes she’s been on. I don’t think it’ll take her long to start going for the redpoint burns. I jumped on Tripe, which I had had one go at the previous weekend. I got to the top and was pretty happy to have done it. The climbing on that top wall is so good. Just wish it were more continuous. Rick ended up showing after finishing work and had a lap up Green Eggs & Ham, his new proj. This was the only route to be properly affected by the rain. Between the last draw and anchors was soaked. He got all the moves leading up to it though, so with a little bit of route fitness I think he’ll put it to bed soon enough. We walked out to stunning sunset to finish a beautiful day.

On Sunday a group of us headed to Bardens. Here, we found the circus. Managing to score the last park in the car park we walked in and found the crowds. After a few warm-ups on the slabs I went around the corner to jump back on Bloodline. I’d had a few goes on it before and still had all my draws dangling from the roof to the anchors. First go I got up to just under the prow, had a quick shake and tried to bust out the last few moves. As I pulled into the undercling I melted. I growled though and tried to slap up to the good edge. I missed fell. I wasn’t the nicest fall I’ve ever had. If you have fragile eyes you may want to skip the next sentence. It was a big enough fall, maybe 6ish meters, but really nothing to worry about unless you have your right nut caught under your leg loop. God damn it hurt!!! Rick had a go at Pleasures, but still had trouble holding the move through the roof. Jay got the batman of Way of all Flesh, clocking in his first 26! After some rest I got back on Bloodline for another crack. Pulled through the roof and hung at the last good rest before the final power endurance crux. As a started into the final bit I had this weird feeling come over me. I wasn’t feeling pumped like every other time and all the holds felt twice as big. I kept on climbing and hit the anchors feeling pretty good. Stripped the draws and the job was done. Took seven goes in total. Starting to feel some good fitness. I’m not sure whether I’m happier to have my draws back or that I did the route. Walking around with six draws for 2 weeks is definitely not enough for the mountains.

As for the grade, I think 31. There's enough rests and the holds are all too positive, I think, for it to be in the 32 range. I heard the FA and a few proceeding ascents were done differently to the sequence I used, but I saw the sequence and it seems bizarre. Skipping a bunch of holds right next to and below 2 draws to make it hard seems contrived. Climb the line. It shouldn't be about eliminating to get a grade. This is all second maybe third hand info I got though so I don't want to tread on toes. It was what I was told and thats my opinion on it. Straighten me out if what I've been told is trash.

Later that day Sammy onsighted his first 18 and followed it up by flashing his first 19 since starting climbing again 6 weeks ago after many years of the wagon. Cool to see some good progress and I don’t think it’ll be long before he starts knocking of 20+ routes just as quickly.

Todays a rest day before heading back out again tomorrow. Job hunting has been a project for 3 weeks now and still to no avail. Going to have another crack at the title today. If anyone knows of any work going I’m keen. Happy to waiter, do retail or be a labourer (I have experience)!!

Peace out and stay posted for some new stuff. Hopefully buy a camera soon so the posts will have some colour YAY.

Headed south

Long time coming but better late then never I guess. I’ve just been lazy lately. So lets play catch up. After I got back form Rocklands I took a very long overdue rest for 5 weeks. My fingers were fucked. Climbing a ladder at work hurt them. When I came back it sucked. I’d lost a lot of strength but it felt damn good to be climbing again, feeling the movement. Best of all the digits were feeling much better too. Still not 100% but I was going to take the win. After very slowly getting back into it for a month I started to feel good on the wall again. Two and a bit months later they are still tender and I don’t feel I’m back to 100% but I’m loving climbing. If you get injured, take a week off when you first feel a twinge. Not a month off because you can no longer climb, then deal with rehab for the next 6. IT SUCKS!!!

Over in Rocklands I met a few lads from the Bluies who finely swayed me to migrate south. I’d always wanted to but it seemed too hard. It really wasn’t. After three months of drilling holes at Parliament House I saved enough money to pack the car and head down. I’ve moved in with Amanda, her awesome kids and Thom in a massive house at Medlow Bath. It backs out onto a spectacular view of the Gross Valley and in the backyard is the crazy and disorientating roofing climbing of the Underworld.

The weather has been pretty kind in the last 3 weeks. Done some fun climbing around the joint whilst trying to not over do it and refuck my fingers. I’d never done much multipitching before but recently did Wally’s World and I was a teenager for the CIA with Rick and loved them. I didn’t real do I was a teenager, but tried the variant finish, Davis Hicks Memorial. I got through it all and 2m before the top took a wrong turn and tried to head out right into moss and chossy rock and soon had a footer break and I came tumbling off. For some reason I thought the topo said head right at the end. I tried doing that for 10 minutes then gave up and bailed out left and up. When I rechecked to topo and saw that out left was in fact the way to go it was pretty annoying. But it just means I get to get back on and try again. It was a stellar bit of climbing. Also on the Teen angst wall was an ultra classic route called Beautiful but Limp. A 50m pitch, climbing the full length of the wall right up the guts. It was insanely good. Might be easier then the proposed 27, but to be honest it really doesn’t matter. Being able to just keep climbing and climbing in one long hit, for me, is what it’s all about. Getting in a good headspace and just flowing up a wall is one of the best feelings I think. One day I’d love to climb something that’s that long and at my limit.

I’ve also joined up to the boulder co-op in Blackheath. It’s insane. Back in Brisbane training consisted of myself and the boys playing pranks on each other, talking trash, playing soccer in the car park, hacky sack, handball and most recently building forts out of the cardboard boxes we found in the bins outside the gym. Although this was tons of fun it really didn’t help with climbing. I’ve been to the co-op three times now and have had three good sessions. Pretty psyched to actually start doing some proper training.

So basically that’s a quick overview of the last 3 months. Now I’ve settled down and got everything sorted I’ll pull my finger out and start updating more regularly, so stay tuned. All I need to do now is find some work =s.

Rockalnds part 2

So here's part 2 of Pat's great vid he made of our trip.

Enjoy

Rocklands: Part 2 of 2: The Sends from Panda Prod. on Vimeo.

Part 1 of Pat's rocklands epic vid

So here's part 1 of Pat's vid he made of our awesome trip.

Rocklands: Part 1 of 2 from Panda Prod. on Vimeo.

Update

So after getting back from South Africa I've been pretty busy. Work has been taking up a fair bit of my time which is rough but its just one of those things that has to happen. While I was away my middle fingers on both hands became quite sore. I think it's an over use injury from 2 years of climbing with no more then a weeks break. I haven't climbed since being back which has been hard but well worth it. Fingers are starting to feel goodish, probably 2 weeks before I pull on to super easy traversing and vertical stuff. It looks like I'll be moving down to the bluies soon!!! Waiting to finish the job I'm on at the moment which will be in about a months time then I'll pack the car and get down there. A vague plan is to get down there and find some work locally and just have a ball in a beautiful part of the country.

On a side note I was rear ended on Friday afternoon by a Mitsubishi Pajero with a big ass bull bar. Everyone was ok but my poor old Volvo which in its 37yrs had never been in a crash, is in a bit of a state. Cosmetically its not too bad but there's something a miss underneath. Hopefully it can all be sorted in time for bluies. Serious cog in my plan if something major has happened.

Photos from rocklands are becoming a little annoying to get sorted. We just have so many and to swap them and get through them all is proving to take a while. Pat reckons he's close to getting the trip vid done though so I'll post that when its up. Stay tuned. Here's the trailer.

Rocklands Trailer from Panda Prod. on Vimeo.

That's the way love goes

Our time in Rocklands has sadly come to an end. I'm sitting in bed in a backpackers in Capetown catching up on a lot of computer work. When there's boulders to be climbed and good times to be had with your buddies, the last thing you want to do is sit on a couch and type. We've climbed on some of the best boulders the world has to offer in the last month and there is not one moment I wouldn't relive. Getting up, having breakfast and going bouldering with your buddies is as good as it gets. At the beginning of the trip I was psyched on jumping on some 12s and working through them. But I was never really sure whether we will be back at an area so spending a day projecting something and never getting back seemed like a waste. It has, however, been really fun just completing a bunch of stuff between V5-10 in a day. It's a great feeling completing problems in a day and walking out at night feeling totally wrecked.

Rocklands is not all about bouldering though. De Pakhuys (farm we stayed at) is the host of the Annual Rockstock Airstar International World Championships. It sounds fancy but basically consist of a massive party were all the climbers come together for a big party. A lamb is put on the spit, many beers are drunk and the main attraction...... the air guitar comp. Climbers can form a band, choose a song then rock out on stage miming it all in front of 200+ people. Matt, Pat, Josh Grose and I formed Cameltosis and covered Katy Perry's I kissed a girl. Josh got in drag as Katy herself, Matt rocked out on the air keyboard, Pat went nuts on the air drums at the back and I went 'friggin super insane' (yes some one came up afterwards and said that to me about my performance) on the air guitar. Apparently we went friggin super insane enough to win the competition and bring home the trophy. There's a video of our performance somewhere. If I find it I'll post up.

Matt, Pat, Tara and I all just sat down to a wicked dinner and reminisced about all the good times. I narrowed mine down to a top 3: The day I had at Sassies with Josh Grose was one. I finally did the uber classic highball, Splash of Red V10, where the hard moves start at 4m and don't stop till your holding the final jug at about 7m. It was the 3rd session I had had on the route and with the sun about to turn the rock to soap it was going to be my last go of the trip. The climbing gods smiled and let me get through to the top. It's the best bit of climbing I have ever done. Josh did it straight after me and the two of us then sat underneath it and had some lunch as happy as could be. Later that day Josh did the also uber classic Shozaloza V12 in one session. Super impressive. It was a great day to be alive. Rocking out on stage to Katy Perry was also another moment on the trip where all I could do was smile and just think 'I love life.' And last but not least would be working on yet another classic, Caroline V10. The moves are so beautiful and you need to do each one perfectly so that you have juice for the end. It's one of those problems were you grit your teeth and just go for it from the first move. Unfortunately I ran out of light at the end of the day and had to leave feeling like if I had an extra 30min of light I could have done it. But that's the way love goes. It's definitely a problem for next year. Hopefully spend 3 months next year. And I'll add a 4th to my top 3. Riding in the back of a truck with 25 other climbers over the pass and down through Clanwilliam (local town) to the golf club for the 1st Annual Rocklands Golf Day was another time where I just sat back and watched everything that was happening around me and just smiled.

I'll post some photos in about a week when I get back settled at home and have time to sort through them all. If you haven't been to Rocklands, get there. It's cheap, beautiful and the bouldering is some of the best in the world. You'd be greedy if you were asking for more.

Rocklands

Matt, Pat, Tara and I are now in Rocklands!!! It's crazy. There is soooo much rock. The photos you see of a hill side covered in rock is only 5% of what is actually here. We got into Capetown on Wednesday and it was raining and cold. It was a bit of a horror drive up to Rocklands but we were psyched all the same. Matt and I went for a boulder that arvo, just on some easy stuff, and the rock was great. Thursday we went to the Plateau boulders and Arc Valley. Matt and I both did Minki, V7 and Pat did Feist, V4 before we moved over to Arch Valley. Tara unfortunately ignited an old hip injury so wasn't able to climb for the rest of the day. Matt and I both did a few boulders between V6-8. I also onsighted Arch Baby, V8, which I was pretty happy with.

Yesterday we headed to Fields of Joy. There are heaps of great boulders there. Matt onsighted Maniac V7 which was really cool. I could barely do the moves and just gave up. It was a sloper problem, I am shit on slopers!! Pat did Sneak, V5 and was pretty happy with it. His hardest tick of the trip so far. After that we headed round to Dirty Lies boulder where Matt and I both flashed Dirty Lies, V7. We then tried No Late Tenders, V10, with a dude from Germany called Fabi (most probably spelt wrong). We worked through all the moves and Fabi sent it 1st go after unlocking the sequence. Matt came very close but no cigar and I gave up because the holds were too sharp for my wrecked fingers. Matt and I headed over to try Macho King V10. Its a really cool overhung line where you basically crimp in a crack formed from this weird block that creates the line. I had one go from the start and fell half way. I thought the climbing through the crack would be much easier. But after working out all the moves I had another go from the start and got it. It was the first time I did the last move, which is also the crux. Its a weird throw behind your head to a small shelf, on the tip of the overhang, from an undercling and horror sloper.

Today we had a well timed rest day. Fingers are shot and it was rainy and cold. Although every day is cold. We've woken up to ice on the car!!! Crazy for Brissy people. We just sat at home with a fire, climbing movies and green tea. It was great. Roadside is our destination for tomorrow. There's heaps of uber classic lines there and we are all pretty psyched.

Macho King V10

Macho King

Macho King

Macho King

Pat on his trip proj. Gegen den wind, V7

Ohhh yeah Matty knows where its at

The view from our house for the next month

Fields of Joy view

Pat getting ready to shoot Matt flash Dirty Lies, V7

Matt on Dirty Lies

Dirty Lies

=)

On Tuesday I went back out with Lee for one last effort on The Singularity. It was a beautiful winters day. Crisp and not a cloud in the sky. It was however, very windy at the cliff, but in the calm it was great. After the warm ups I went up Singu and gave everything a brush and climbed all the moves except for the cruz, just getting my self warm for it. Then belayed Lee on his proj, where he made a high point. Lee had bought some tiny heat packs (half the size of a iPhone)and he put one in his chalk bag, so each time you chalked up you got a little warmth. On the windy days at Pulpit frozen fingers can be killer. He came off but was stocked that the heat packs worked a treat. I chucked one in my chalk bag and tied in. I got to the crux feeling the same as the 9 previous times I'd climbed to it. But suddenly my right hand just moved in slow motion to the crimp, hitting it perfectly. Reach for the pinch, half a doubt about the move to the slopper then throw and catch. I was psyched. It always feels great to climb a route well.

Lee did even better again on his next two attempts on his proj. It's weird saying high point for this. The last few times his high point has been hanging off the same holds, but each time his hanging slighty longer and moving his body and feet ready for the next move. I really think he's definitely strong enough to do the route while I'm away. Good luck bud!!!

5 DAYS TIL ROCKLANDS!!!!!!

Here's a cool vid Lee made of a bit of my journey on the route.

Tom O'Halloran - The Singularity 32/8b+ from Upskill Climbing on Vimeo.

oh so close

I've been working on The Singularity for 5 days now and on the weekend I came close to doing it. I figured out the subtleties of the crux and managed to stick the stab to the 1/3 pad slopey crimp for 2-3 seconds before peeling off. From the crimp you through out to a good pinch then make an easy deadpoint to the victory juggy sloper then 18 climbing to the top. I'm heading out tomorrow with Lee for one last go before heading off to Rocklands. It'll be my last go for 7 weeks =(.

Lee is looking close to doing his project as well. It's a new route linking Beautiful Thing, 28 and Schadenfruede, 31. He is dancing through it until the last hard moves at the top where he has a melting moment. It's going to be one of QLD hardest routes, Lee saying it's at least a grade harder then Schanden. It'll sit at at least 32, Schanden being at the bottom of the 31 grade.

So Lee and I are heading out with projects we both really want to do. Should be a good day out!!!

Here's a vid Lee made the other week of how my skin is going.

Gimme Some Skin from Upskill Climbing on Vimeo.

busy busy

I've been pretty busy in the last few weeks. Working heaps and climbing heaps.... sort of. I've had an annoying finger injury since before easter and its just stayed the same. I kept climbing with it thinking it'd go away but it has just hung around. So I've been icing (but no where near enough) and resting and hoping for the best. I'd rather 3 weeks off now then in Rocklands.

I've been climbing at the Pulpit recently and have been having heaps of fun. A few weeks back I did a route I've wanted to do for ages. I saw a pic of Lee on it before I'd ever been out there and I wanted to do it. It gave me some frustrating times, I have no endurance at the moment because I'm just bouldering. A 30m 30 was not going to go down easy if your training the opposite. After that I got on The Singularity. A 32 Lee put up a few years back. Its a great boulder route. It climbs about 20 sustained moves culminating with a bull shitlly hard move on 1/4 pad edges to a hard pinch move then a out of balance slap to a sloper. I've had 2 1/2 days on it so far, 9 goes in total i think.

The top 3 photos are One Hit. The 1st photo shows the route. Resting at the 1/2way point before powering out to the top.

These pics are from Singularity. The top pic is on a low hard move and the bottom photo is the crux move. Hopefully I'll stick it soon!!!

Early morning Toohey session

Yesterday Michael and I went to Toohey Forest for an early session before the heat of the day kicked in. We headed round to Butter me up, V8 which is Michael project. It's a problem on crimps on a slight overhang. I'd not been on it before and was stoked to flash it. Michael had a few goes but couldn't finish. Then we went back to the Fatman boulder. This boulder has a few problems that all revolve around the main line, Fatman Traverse, V10. This problem starts with a really hard undercling start in the roof then a lunge for the lip. I'd never been close to ever gettin my ass off the ground on this move. But got on it and everything just felt good. I did Unleash the Dancer Within, V7, on about my 3rd go. Then did Fatman Traverse about 5 min later. Pretty happy with doing this all before 8:00am on a Tuesday morning.

Here's a vid Michael knocked up of Unleash the Dancer and Fatman

Tom O'Halloran ~ Toohey Forest from Michael Garrahy on Vimeo.

Easter road trip

Nate and I started our trip at the at 8:00pm on Thursday night at the Yatla BP. I quick bite of Nandos and a fill of the tank and away we went. I drove from Bris to about an hour out side of Newcastle (1 ½ litres of energy drink helped), Nate took over for a couple hours while I tried to sleep. Then I drove the last 150km. It was beautiful blue skies on the way up the mountain and it felt good to be back. We stopped in at the Katoomba hospital because Nate had some metal in his eye from work. But he walked out saying it felt worse then when he walked in =s. We got to Amanda’s place in Blackheath around 10:00 Friday morning. For some reason I thought it’d be a great idea to go to the skate park before we hit the cliffs. I stacked it and both my elbows got smashed and still really hurt.

Anyway that afternoon Nate, Amanda, Ben and I went to Junket pumper area in the Glen. It was super freezing. Easily under 10 degrees with the wind chill. We all got on Junket Jumper, 24, which was Amanda’s proj. Nate onsighted it which was cool. Ben got on Wrong Movements, 27 and worked his way up it. He looked pretty solid on it, just a little bit of route fitness and its in the bag. I had a play on Alpha Leather, 32, which was super cool, but a little to crimpy and bouldery to waste skin on this trip. That night I went to bed after 37hrs of being awake.

Saturday, Nate and I met up with Sebastian and after considering how absolutely crap the weather went down to the Glen in the rain and mist, not all that psyched to do anything. After warming up we all just got hed up, Sebastian went home and Nate and I met up with a few other QLDers at Bardens Lookout. Nate onsighted Goosebumps, 24, really easily and we went round to the wall with Way of all Flesh. I’d done this climb before so got on Pleasures of the Flesh, 29 and with some beta from Dan Fisher got all the moves sorted on my first go up it. There was quite a line up for WOAF so Nate wasn’t able to have a go before it got dark.

Sunday, Nate Amanda, Ben and I headed back to Bardens. Ben put the draws on remembering the moves, he’d been on it once before, and got to the top without much of a drama. Nate went for an onsight from the ground but through for a tiny slot instead of the big jug a little further right at the start and came off. He pulled up to the first draw and tried the 26 variant then but despite looking really solid, came off pulling over the lip at about the 8th bolt. A fair effort. I got back on Pleasures and got it. Super stocked. Such a great climb. 2 goes in total. I then had a run up Bloodline, 32. It felt super good. If we head back there at some stage this trip I’m psyched for it.

After a rest day we all headed down to Nowra. Nate and I had never been before and we were super psyched. We got on rock around 1 after a late start and we all got on Spinning Blades, a really cool 20 the climbs up a steep roof on mega incut plates. This was going to be Amanda’s proj for the trip, but she ended up flashing it for her warm up!!! We packed up our gear then and headed round to South Central. That cliff is insane. Moderately over hung climbing for 8m then out a big roof. With stuff from 19-31 its no wonder the Nowra frequenters are so strong. I got on Ain’t no Sunshine, 28 and had 2 goes without success. On my 2nd go I got to the last hard move, messed my hand sequence and came off very disappointed. We ran out of light quickly so headed to the RSL for a $19 buffet dinner. That night we slept under a little cave at Thompsons point surrounded by wombat shit.

Next day after another late start we headed rounded to PC. I was super keen to see White Ladder/Attack Mode but was a little disappointed. I thought it was much bigger and grander. If you stand on the boulder at the base of the climb and reach high you come about 2m sort of the anchors of Attack Mode. But after looking at it for a while I saw it in a new light. It looked as good as the hype. Really want to get on it one day. We got on Trigga Nigga, 25, as a warm up and Ben onsighted it for his first 25 os. Nate also onsighted it which was cool. We then went over to Turn Yours Eyes Insane, 26. I onsighted it which I was happy about then Nate and Ben worked through all the moves. Next I got on Brother in a Body Bag, 28, and got up to the crux without much drama. I had real trouble trying to work out the moves through the crux. There were so many holds chalked. I kept on coming back to the same sequence though that involved a sloppy dish I had nothing on. It wasn’t that bad a hold but for some reason it just wasn’t working. My second shot I came off before the crux. I was pretty disappointed but pretty tired from the last week of solid climbing.

We took abit of a rest day after Nowra. It was another miserable day in the mountains. As we were sitting at Altitude drinking coffee and whinning about the weather I suddenly worked it out, crap weather in the bluies, good weather in Nowra, 3 days left of the trip. We were in the car that night heading down the mountain. Slept in the cave at Thompsons Point and in the morning headed round to a pocketed wall at Thomos. I did a really cool route called Muscle Hustler, 26, which felt like it wouldn’t end. Easily the best route of the trip. Then round to the grease cave. It’s pretty insane. Nate and Ben worked on Inflatey Katie, 26, and I hopped on Sexy is the Word, 31. On my 2nd go I got up to the crux feeling fresh but muddled my feet and fell. It felt close but I wasn’t too fussed on a 3rd go.

Friday night we slept at South Central. We woke up Saturday and after warming up we all decided the conditions were too bad to climb. It literally felt like it was soap. It had been raining all night and the moisture turned the mega chalked holds into goo. So Nate and I packed the car and blasted back to bris, getting home at 2:30am Sunday.

Although we had terrible weather pretty much the entire time it was an awesome tri with awesome friends =)

Sorry about the lack of photos. I'm having trouble uploading. I'm not too computer literate. If I work it out I'll upload

Get your psyche on

I had the day off work today due to rain so have sat at the computer watching climbing videos getting super psyched for the weekend. Pulpit tomorrow, get on One Hit to the Body. It's a long hard route and ever since I saw a pick of Lee on it in Crux ages a go I've wanted to do it. It's a route I've wanted to do since before I made my first trip out to the Pulpit. Then first day at Frog for the year on Sunday with Dunc and Glen. Looking forward to it.

Anyway coming back from a ramble, here's a sweet video I found of Rich Simpson climbing Action Directe. This is a route I definitely want to get on some day. It's just such a crazy looking thing. I'm a long long long way from being able to do it at the moment, but it's a dream =).

Obsession from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.

The video

The video has come through!! Lee has put it together and it looks cool!!

Click here for the link through

It is a vimeo link. Blogger doesnt like it. ANNOYING!!!

Lee's web site for one on one coaching, soft goods (i just bought a sweet jumper), training programs and much more
http://www.upskillclimbing.com/

Pics from yesterday

Yesterday I sent my hardest route for the year Schadenfreude, 31. It's really only been the last 3 weeks that I've been getting outdoors and trying hard on hard routes so I'm stoked. Here's a few pics from the day.

Nate onsighting his first 26, Countdown

Duncan on his multi year proj. This routes is nails hard. He's lapping up the other high 20's and 30's at the rest of the crag

First hard moves of the boulder problem

Last hard move. Deadpoint to a small crimp by the bolt. I fell on this move the go before the send =(

Last moves to the chain

Lee in position taking some video. Footage of the send will be out soon

Cold, Heat Rash.... Schadenfreude kinda makes sense

Today was a great day out at the Pulpit. Seven of us went out there all super psyched. Everyone had a warm up then Nate got on Countdown, 26 and crushed it for the onsight. It's a really good route but hard to read. There's weird rocks jutting out and little scoops up the route that can draw you in and spit you off. It was Nate's first 26 onsight!!

I got back on Schadenfreude, 31, which I was trying last week. Its a super bouldery route Lee put up 2 years earlier. Schadenfreude basically means taking joy from someones sorrows. People had been ripping into me all week about my cold and heat rash, hence the title. The route has an easy few moves to a rest then gets serious with an extremely sustained 13 move boulder problem on small crimps and awkward underclings on reasonably overhung wall. It climbs really well. I got all the moves on my first burn last week but it took another 5 goes to get it clean. One go today involved plumetting to the deck when the jug I was resting on at the start ripped off =S. Pretty spooky.

There's some cool pics and a movie Lee shot to come!!! Stay posted =)

First day out

So apart from bluies, today was basically my first proper day out climbing on rock this year. It couldn't have been better either. Dunc, Lee my dad and I headed out to The Pulpit. Its such a great cliff. Climbing starts around 28+ and its sick to have so many hard routes in one spot. I felt really psyched being out there. I got on Beautiful Thing 28, a route I flailed on on my one trip out there last year, and did it first go today with almost no memory of the sequence i used last year. I was psyched to do it so easily. Then got on Beastly Behaviour 29, next to it. Both lines are really bouldery power endurance routes and so so good. I got up high on my first shot of BB, second go messed up my sequence big time then 3rd go went well until i piked halfway through a big lunge =( (the last hard move). I'll be back there though. Im so psyched for this year =)

States and Rocklands

The QLD state titles are on in month so I've started to do a bit of training again. I have had a slow start to the year, but it feels good to rest up a bit. It's given my shoulder a bit of time to recover.

So anyway state titles are being held at Rocksports at Logan. It's a super cool wall and I'm psyched a comp is being held there. I think its been many many years since the last. These comps are for EVERYONE. There's a category for every ability. If you climb up to 20 get into Open C, up to 25 Open B and 26+ get into Open A. There's also all the junior categories. The comps are really friendly and everyone is there to cheer you on. If you don't feel up to competing come down and have a look. It's always fun!!

On another note. I'm buying my Rocklands ticket today!!!! Super psyched. Heading over for a month, maybe more, in July with Tara, Matty and Pat. I've been watching heaps of climbing vids lately that feature Rocklands. One that I've now watched 24 times is Orange Crush. It's a really good 30min vid all on the Rocklands. It costs $5 and it may well be the best $5 you'll ever spend.

Here's the trailer

And one last thing. Urban climbing now has a sweet training facility. There's 9 hangboards a proper campus board and a system board will be in soon!!! It shall be sweet.

Video from sunday

So here's the video of me on the 11 from sunday. Michael is responsible for it.

http://vimeo.com/19953904

Because the vid is on vimeo (which isnt supported by google) I cant do a proper link to it. Just click on the link. Hopefully get more vids up of stuff soon!!

A good summer sunday

Today was a pretty damn good day. Nate, Michael, Antione and I went up the coast for Matt Schimke's birthday. We played paintball and, although it's pricey, it was awesome. Everyone after over an hour of game play were covered in some pretty good bruises.

That afternoon Nate, Michael and I decided we felt like a boulder and swim so we made our way to Cedar Creek. I got on a V11 Simon Moses put up a while ago which I had tried twice before. Its a 3 move problem and every move is really hard. It starts with a tense bump to a bad crimp, then a really hard move up to a bad sloppey pinch then a desperate through to a good dish on the lip. It's really fun!!! I was able to do it after about 10min today. About an hours worth of work in total to do it. It was my 2nd V11. It feels as hard as Gone for Borneo, a V11 I put up in Toohey Forest so I'm happy about that.

Simon and Rob established many of the problems at Cedar Creek but didn't give most a name. I think this is one of the unnamed.

Here are a few picks of me on it taken by Michael. There's a video to come soon.

I'm really psyched to get to Rocklands in July this year so I'll be doing a lot more bouldering!!

Gear Reviews

I’ve been playing around with some gear from Black Diamond and Evolv lately and have been very impressed.

For the last few months I’ve been climbing in a Black Diamond Aura harness (haha yes it is the female one but it’s what fitted best). It’s BD’s lightweight sport harness, for females; the male version is the Ozone.  It sits really well when you’re climbing and is super comfortable for those long dogging sessions and hanging belays. There are two large gear loops that easily fit 6+ quickdraws on each plus a spare biners etc. I’ll definitely be taking it out to Frog when winter comes around. I think it’ll work quite well for hard trad routes. I’m really happy with the Aura and can see myself hanging in it for a while.  Did I mention it’s an awesome bright yellow!! The Ozone is orange.

Wearing the Aura on Point Break, 30, Wave Wall, Blue Mtns. Photo: Frank Petsch

The Evolv Talon G2 and Optimus Prime are the two main shoes I’ve been climbing for a while now. I’m onto my 2^nd pair of the Optimus Primes. Both shoes have been great for both bouldering and sport climbing. The Optimus Primes are a Velcro with a 4.2mm medium stiff sole and great edges.  The Talon G2s are a lace up and seem to have the same stiff sole. Being a stiffer sole they aren’t too sensitive, but once you get your confidence with them they are great. Heel and toe hooking is a breeze in both shoes. I’ve only been climbing in the Talons for a month now but am very impressed. And my second pair of the Optimus Primes are just as good as the first. Evolv’s shoes are vegan, no leather, so they won’t stretch too much. Buy your Evolvs comfortably tight. They will mold to the shape of your foot, but they wont stretch by more then ½ a size.

Wearing the Aura harness and Optimus Primes on Matt Schimke's new route Eraserhead, 26!?, Mt Coolum. Photo: JJ Obrien

Something to start with

Ok. It's taken a while to pull my finger out but finally I've made a blog. It'll be about climbing and mates. Two things that keep me going =). I'll do my best to keep it up to date so check back every now and then for something to read and pics and vids to look at.

Climbing lately has been awesome for me. I went to China with Pinnacle Sport in november last year for the best climbing I've ever experienced. It was insane and everyone needs to put Yangshuo on their destination list!!

Here's a little trip report i wrote up a little while ago:

In late November and early December I spent 2 weeks climbing in Yangshuo, China with Pinnacle sports. It’s one of the best climbing trips I’ve ever done. I flew into Hong Kong and spent a few days taking in the sights. We snuck a days climbing in at Beacon Hill, which is a great little crag. The climbing in Honk Kong is not solely worth the trip, but is definitely worth looking at if your travelling through to China.

View from Moon Hill

Driving into Yangshuo on the bus is surreal. There are literally 1000’s of limestone towers EVERYWHERE. Of these 1000’s of towers there are only 38 established crags, and according to the local climbers if you want to bolt it you can. The potential over there is ridiculous; enough for 7 lifetimes of 5 star climbing.

Each morning we woke up had an awesome breakfast jumped into the bus and cruised to another awesome crag. From Yangshuo almost all crags are less then 15min away. All the crags are insane, you just want to climb everyday. I did this for the first 6 days =s. On the 6^th day we went to Chicken Cave, which is some sort of old army shelter from back in the day. I got completely shut down on a 26 and knew I needed a proper rest.

I went to White Mountain twice on the trip. It is the best cliff I have ever seen in my life, and with routes from 20 to Ethan Pringle's new 34 its got something for almost everyone. On one of the trips to White Mountain, Owen and I decided to try our luck against the Yangshuo traffic on Scooters. I’m surprised there aren’t 37 crashes each afternoon over there. The Chinese drivers are nuts, but it all somehow works.

WHITE MOUNTAIN!!! You could drive your bike into the cliff if you wanted too. How's that for a walk in.

The day at Moon Hill was also a highlight. Its an amazing arch at the top of a hill amidst 1000's of plugs of limestone. The climbing there ranges from almost vertical to absolute roof and has a grades span similar to White Mountain.

Moon Hill

Early morning Yangshuo

Someone in our group summed up Yangshuo as China’s Queenstown. He wasn’t far wrong. It’s such a peaceful and cruisy place. There’s a really nice vibe everywhere you go. If you’re not up for a climb you can hire a bike for 20c and ride around all day. Or take a boat down the river or walk up a few of the limestone towers for a crazy good view.

At the end of the trip I’d onsighted 9 routes between 26 and 30 and redpointed a 28 and 29.

I was stoked after the 10 days. No way I thought it was going to be that good. To anyone thinking about their next climbing trip destination; do yourself a favour and get to Yangshuo. The trip with Pinnacle was just insane. Your biggest worry for the trip is if you’ve set your alarm clock for the next morning so you can get up and crank out more classic routes in a stunning setting.

As I said before I'll do my best to keep something fresh happening here so check back!! I am taking a bit of a break at the moment though. Big year ahead!! There's plenty in South East Queensland on my tick list for this year. Plus a trip to Rocklands, South Africa is looking promising!!!